With Relish

Now that charcuterie, cupcakes and punch have been sufficiently revived, let us set our sites on...the relish tray!  A recent estate sale visit reminded me of how ubiquitous the relish tray once was in American culture.  While you might think that crudités is the same thing as a relish tray, these cousins are not exactly interchangeable--in my mind anyway.

Crudites are raw or par-cooked vegetables I usually serve with a sauce for dipping.  They are what is best and most fresh from the market or grocer.  A relish tray, is similar in that it may contain some raw or fresh vegetables, but it will also probably have some stuffed olives, home pickled vegetable and several other things from a jar.  You might have some celery that has been stuffed with pimento cheese or some other kind of spread.  Perhaps some cucumbers and vinegar?

I think we just about always had a relish tray when Mildred was serving dinner.  It was never anything fancy, but I know she always had a small bowl of the cucumbers with onion, some raw spring onions I only remember her eating and...I can't remember quite what else.  My dad usually puts together a relish platter when we're dining there and my brother mocks my sister-in-law, saying her families' relish tray is just black olives.  My new relish dishes inspired me to put together two relish trays, perfect for cocktails or a glass of wine, but created for a make-your-own-sandwich buffet we had at work.

When assembling, I think the main purpose of the relish tray should be something refreshing--bright, astringent flavors that wake up the taste buds before dinner.  Variety.  If you need inspiration, pick up any 1950s cookbook and just flip through the photos in the appetizers section.  For mine, I used:

• Sun-dried tomato stuffed olives
• Carrot sticks (not baby-cut carrots!)
• Pickled asparagus
• Garlic gherkins
• Celery sticks stuffed with horseradish cream cheese
• Dill pickle spears
• Pickled okra
• Black olives

Friendly Little Dinner

Entertaining isn't something we do as frequently as we used to, probably because we are still making friends here and also because work and life in general is very busy. I remember a time when we had friends over for dinner at least once a week, sometimes for last-minute dinner parties but other times for overly-detailed celebrations. Now, we probably only host two or three times a year, so when we do, you know I pull out every stop; consider the use of every dish, plate, sherbet or goblet; and pour over every recipe that has been waiting in the wings.

When our friends Gab and Kristina came in from Boston, MA and Dallas, TX for a quick trip to Marfa and Fort Davis, I put a lot of thought into each of the six courses (yes, six), not just what I would serve, but also in what I would serve each culinary creation...food photos courtesy of Gab, one of our guests!

To start:
Mustard-marscarpone spread with toasts, sesame sticks, bread sticks, assorted olives and almonds served in the little black lotus bowls with the black tidbit plates.

First course:
Double-baked three-cheese soufflé served in individual cast iron skillets with a white, Rosenthal under plate.

Salad course:
Butter lettuce with a lemon-oregano vinaigrette on white, Rosenthal salad plates.

Main course:
Homemade bucatini with homemade tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese in the oddly shaped pasta bowls.

Intermezzo:
Basil gelato in the chartreuse Russel Wright sherbets.

Dessert:
Easy candy bar tart on the patterned, Rosenthal dessert plates.

If I say so myself, everything was delicious and we had a wonderful time talking and catching up over the course of the meal. The only thing I felt like need some tweaking was the salad dressing, which was a little on the sour side--but the citrus, red pepper and oregano were a great flavor combination and will probably become something else in the kitchen.  The gelato and pomodoro were of my own devising, so there are a couple of recipes for you to try.

Recipe: Basil Gelato

I use corn starch to thicken my gelato, although many recipes use eggs instead. This recipe is the perfect thing to bridge an Italian main course and dessert; its first taste is sweet, which is replaced with a strong herbaceous flavor and ends with the spicy note of basil. Affected? Yes, but effective.

2 cups basil leaves
3 cups milk
3 tbsp corn starch
¾ cup sugar
1 tbsp. lemon zest
¼ tsp. salt

Combine basil, 2 1/2 cups milk, sugar, zest and salt in a blender and puree until smooth. Pour into a two quart saucepan and heat gently until sugar dissolves.  In the meantime, combine the remaining milk with the cornstarch and whisk to form a slurry.  Continuing heating the basil-milk mixture until it begins to steam; stir in the slurry and continue to cook until the mixture has thickened.  Remove from heat and pour through a fine strainer; chill in the refrigerator for several hours, or for best performance with your ice cream maker, overnight.  Pour into an ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Serve garnished with fresh basil leaves.

Makes about one quart of gelato.

Recipe: Pasta al Pomodoro

Everyone has a favorite red sauce and it may come from a jar--there are so many good-quality brands out there it is easy to find several you like. Lately, I've been trying to find my own perfect recipe and have tried every trick, idea or suggestion. My version combines slowly cooked onion, garlic, tomato sauce and great canned tomatoes to make a delicious sauce. My secret ingredient? Fennel pollen. My secret tool? Using the immersion blender for a smooth, delicious sauce.

For the sauce:
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely minced
4 garlic cloves, finely minced
1 pinch crushed red pepper flakes
1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes or whole tomatoes, use a very good brand
1 8-ounce can of tomato sauce
Pinch of fennel pollen
Kosher salt
3 large fresh basil sprigs

To assemble:
12 ounces bucatini or spaghetti
2 tablespoons cubed unsalted butter
1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving.  You'll want more!

Heat extra-virgin olive oil in a dutch oven over medium-low heat. Add minced onion and cook, stirring, until very soft, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, for another 2-4 minutes. Add crushed red pepper flakes; cook for 1 minute more. Increase heat to medium, add tomatoes, sauce and season lightly with kosher salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce thickens a little, about 30 minutes. Remove pan from heat, stir in basil sprigs, cover and set aside for 30 minutes to an hour.  Remove basil, purée with an immersion blender, or in batches in a blender, until very smooth.

When you're ready to serve, bring water to a boil in a large. Season with salt; add spaghetti or bucatini and cook, stirring occasionally, until not quite tender. Reserve 1/4 cup of the pasta water, then drain pasta.

Bring pasta back to a simmer, add pasta and some of the pasta water; cook, stirring, until sauce coats pasta and pasta is al dente, about 2 minutes, adding more pasta water if needed. Remove pan from heat; add butter and cheese; toss until cheese melts. Serve with more cheese, if desired.  It will be desired!

Serves fours.  The sauce can easily be doubled to serve a larger crowd or to have some to save for later.  I added chopped green and kalamata olives, four extra cloves of minced garlic and 1 tsp. of red pepper flakes to my leftovers for a spicy, easy 'puttanesca.' 

Scurry

In West Texas, spring has sprung: the weather is doing that back and forth thing, but most days are lovely; the trees and bushes, including the red buds, are starting to peek out; and my stomach is yearning for something besides winter foods. But, there is still a chill in the air in the evenings, so I also want something warming. What to do?

Vegetable curry! There are a million curries in the naked city, but this one is simple, delicious and straddles the seasons well by combining root vegetables with those skinny little green beans that are so very yummy. And the gravy? It's tomato-based, simmered with ginger, garlic, pepper and spices and married to a healthy dose of (light) coconut milk for a creamy finish perfect with rice or sopped up with some naan. Leftovers? You'll have a few to see you through a couple of lunches for the week. Plus, this recipe is easily adapted to whatever veggies you like or have on hand. Enjoy.

Recipe: Delicious Vegetable Currrrrry

2 tablespoons canola oil
1 small onion, finely diced
2 tablespoons finely minced fresh ginger
1 jalapeno, seeded and cut into thin strips
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1 1/2 tsp cumin
1 1/2 tsp coriander
1/2 tsp chili powder
1, 16 oz can petite diced tomatoes with juice
1, 16 oz can tomato purée
1, 16 oz can garbanzo bean, drained and well rinsed
One 14-ounce can light coconut milk
3 carrots, peeled, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 pound sweet potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 pound small green beans, cut into thirds
Salt and pepper to taste
Cilantro for garnish
Brown rice for serving


In a large, dutch oven, heat the oil. Add the onion and cook for five minutes, until it begins to soften. Add the ginger, jalapeno and garlic and cook over moderate heat until softened, about another five minutes. Add the spices cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant; about two minutes

Add the tomatoes and tomato puree and cook for five minutes, until the tomatoes begin to soften. Add the coconut milk, season with salt and pepper and bring to a simmer.

Add the carrots and sweet potatoes, cover loosely and simmer for about 20 minutes. Add the green beans and garbanzo beans, cover and simmer until all the vegetables are tender, about 10-15 minutes longer. Taste and adjust the season. Serve with brown rice and garnish with cilantro.

Six servings.

Condiments

I guess I write a lot about condiments, because I love them so much; the only person I know with more condiments in their fridge is my friend Michael in Chicago! While I have gone on and on about mustard, Sriracha and various little bottles of deliciousness, I thought I would highlight a couple of others you should consider adding to your pantry to use regularly.

Heinz Chile Sauce
One of Heinz's classics, this is ketchup with a slight kick. Enjoy it with sweet potato fries or mix with with mayonnaise for a creamy, spicy dipping sauce.  Many people also use it as a 'secret' ingredient in cocktail sauce.

Pickapeppa Sauce
A Jamaican original since 1921, Pickapeppa is like Worcestershire sauce with a little something extra. It has flavors of citrus and the oak barrels it's aged in, so brings that umami essence everyone likes to talk so much about. Basically, you can add it to anything savory. Or try the classic, 'Big Easy' which is Pickapeppa on cream cheese...just add crackers.

Cholula Lime
Cholula is a hot sauce from a recipe that claims to be over 100 years old, produced by three generations. It's been available is the US for about 20 years and is delicious on everything. I literally put it on everything. But they've added some new flavors profiles, including one with lime which is delicious on tacos, burritos, soup, i.e. on everything. Look for the green wooden top instead of the traditional blond wood one.

Herdez Salsa
A friend introduced me to Herdez salsa while I was living in Wichita; she was addicted to the green salsa they produce. I do love it, but their salsa casera is also delicious. It's what I think of as a more traditional Mexican salsa--perhaps made without the tamato sauce that is the basis of many produced in the US? So even though it is a jarred salsa, it seems very fresh. It fries up perfectly for chilaquiles and is the perfect addition to your favorite tacos.

Now, back to mustard...

BBQ Pizza, BBQ Everything

For dinner tonight, I made BBQ "chicken" pizzas and they were pretty delicious. For the "chicken," I rehydrated Butler Soy Curls and seasoned them with thyme, garlic powder, onion powder and a little BBQ sauce. For the sauce, I used my new favorite which is the hickory flavor from Garland Jack's Secret Six made in Garland, TX right outside of Dallas.  It is delicious on everything and I suggest that if you cannot find a bottle in your store, you should order some online. They don't stock the "squealin' hot" flavor here, so I think am going to order some of that.  So, started with the special sauce, added thinly sliced red onion, a mixture of Daiya cheeses, soy curls and them topped them with fresh cilantro when it came out of the oven. Of course, I had to spice mine up with a little Sriracha sauce, but I have to do that regardless of what kind of pizza it is!

Green Chile Pasta

When we were in Mexico a couple of years ago, we had dinner at a little Italian place, twice I think--it was either that or another quesadilla!  They served an avocado pasta sauce that somehow blended the ingredients of the Yucatan with the cuisine of Italy. It was more than memorable, it was unique and special. Unforgettable.

I haven't tried to recreate it, but the idea has lingered in my mind. And the other day I was thinking about those green chiles in my freezer, the avocado sauce, citrus...and a creamy pasta sauce. This was my first attempt, but I think it turned out very well...

Recipe: Green Chile-Avocado Pasta Sauce
The subtle heat and buttery flavor of the Hatch chiles is emphasized by the avocado and lime. Utterly delicious and decadent.

Ingredients
1 lb. bow tie or linguine pasta
6-7 Hatch (Anaheim) green chiles, roasted, seeded and skinned (you should be able to find those in your freezer if you went to all of that trouble earlier in the year.)
1 large avocado, seeded, diced and skinned
Zest and juice of one lime
3 cloves garlic, minced
4 oz. cream cheese (This is what I did with the leftover from the Hot Onion Soufflé!)
1/4 cup sour cream
1/4 cup cilantro, thick stems removed
1 Serrano pepper, halved and seeded, cut into large pieces
Salt to taste

Directions
Cook pasta according to directions on the package. In a food processor, combine all the other ingredients and process until smooth. Once pasta is cooked, reserve 1/2 cup pasta water, drain and stir in sauce. Add pasta water until a smooth, creamy consistency is reached. Taste and adjust seasoning.

I added a can a drained and rinsed garbanzo beans, but you could choose any protein you might like.

How Very Entertaining

 

 

We haven't done a lot of entertaining since moving west.  Work is always busy, plus there is a lot of travel and then we don't have many friends here yet.  But, we had a few friends over for cocktails on Saturday night and it was very enjoyable.  We had gone to the effort to decorate for the holidays, so it was nice to share the season plus fun to plan the food and service.  Of course, that meant digging into storage, because a lot of the entertaining accoutrement is still in boxes due to lack of space.  Or maybe it is due to having too much stuff!

Regardless, it was fun and I planned a simple menu with a few favorites to share.  For drinks, we had wine, a seasonal beer flavored with ginger and pomegranate Manhattans.  Now, I love a classic Manhattan, preferably on the rocks--but I will also enjoy them straight up.  However, one Christmas when a blizzard trapped us in Omaha, I took solace in the delicious pomegranate Manhattans served in our hotel bar.  The secret?  Pama liqueur which you simply substitute for the sweet vermouth.  You can garnish with fresh pomegranate if you like or stick to the traditional cherry and orange twist.  Very festive for the holidays!

Recipe: Pomegranate Manhattan
3 parts bourbon
1 part Pama liqueur
1 dash Angustora bitters per drink

Combine in a pitcher, stir gently to combine.  Serve over ice garnished with a cherry and twist of orange.  It's a simple proportion that allows you to make a little or a lot.  I like Weller's bourbon, but use what you like.

For eats, I pulled out some standards: Mushroom Pecan Pâté, Baked Artichoke Hearts and Hot Onion Soufflé to which I added a selection of cheeses, almonds, olives, my favorite bread sticks, crackers and some pickly things including dad's pickled okra, little cornichons and some carrot slices I made.  I just realized that although I have mentioned it repeatedly in posts, I've never shared the recipe for my Hot Onion Soufflé here, so I'm doing that now.  It's a favorite and couldn't be simpler.  I've tweaked the recipe a little over the years, but this is where it currently stands.

Recipe: Hot Onion Soufflé
20 oz. of cream cheese, softened  (That's two and half 8 oz. packages, what you do with the rest of that third 8 oz. package is between you and your god.)
4 oz. of plain goat cheese, softened
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 tsp. onion powder
1 tsp. garlic powder
Pinch of salt
2 cups grated Parmesan cheese (get the good stuff) plus a little more for the top
14 oz. bag of frozen, chopped onion, thawed and water squeezed out in a colander or dishtowel

Okay, first you're asking yourself: why would I buy frozen, chopped onion?  Can't I just use fresh?  Well, yes, of course you can, but that is the beauty of this delicious crowd-pleaser: you don't even have to chop onions!

Preheat your oven to 425 degrees.  In a big yellow bowl, combine the cream cheese, goat cheese, mayonnaise, onion powder, garlic powder and salt.  Mix with a wooden spoon until combined.  Now you may think, "I'll just use my silicone spatula to mix this up," but save yourself the trouble and use a wooden spoon like I said.  It's not difficult to mix this together, but using the right tool specified by the author does make it a little easier.  Once that is smooth and creamy, add the onion and Parmesan cheese and continue to mix until well combined.  Taste and adjust seasoning.

Now here is where you have to make a decision: conventially, I usually put this in a glass pie plate, top it with more grated Parmesan cheese and bake it for about 20 minutes or until the top is golden and the entire thing is a bubbly, lava pit of creamy cheese.  But, if you're planning on serving it at a cocktail party with several waves of people, you can divide it between two dishes as I did with the small cast-iron skillets above to have one on the table and other in reserve.  Either way, you want a dish that is on the shallow side to increase the ratio of delicious browned topping to creamy, molten interior.

At this point, you're thinking, "This all sounds delicious and simple, but what do I serve it with?" And that my friend is the easiest thing of all: Hot Onion Soufflé is good on anything, from crackers to toast points.  But, I have learned by serving it with anything and everything, it is absolutely best on...Frito scoops.  Yes, Fritos.  Perhaps you think you're too classy to serve Fritos at a cocktail party?!  You're a foodie and you would never serve a dip made with cream cheese that also contains powdered onion and garlic the author is suggesting you serve with some chip you can buy anywhere and isn't even some artisnal item from a small-batch producer in northern California.  Well, I am not too classy.  And let me tell you something, your guests aren't either and they will eat every bit of this stuff WITH the Fritos and lick it off their fingers.  Promise.

If, and I repeat, IF there is any leftover, it is just as good cold the next day from the fridge while you are doing the dishes.  Heck, you might even think of cutting the crust off some bread and making tea sandwiches with it.  Or just a grilled cheese you can dip in tomato soup.  Or a Hot Onion Soufflé quesadilla?!  You can't go wrong.

Happy holidays!  Enjoy your time with family and friends...